Differences

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--- livebox:assembly [2012/04/09 11:19] – [1-Wire] minerva9
+++ livebox:assembly [2013/04/13 12:37] (current) – [Before Power-up] minerva9
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   * A 433MHz RF transmitter
   * A LCD (1x16)
+  * A DS18B20 temperature sensor
@@ Line 26: / Line 27: @@
 ====== HAH PCB assembly notes ======
-{{:livebox:pcb_rev1.jpg?320}} click image for enlargement.
+{{:livebox:pcb_rev1.jpg?320}} \\
+Click image for enlargement or download [[http://www.dbzoo.com/_media/livebox/pcb_rev1.jpg|Full JPEG]] 2298x1563 image.
 Before starting, make sure that you have all of the parts that you require. Components are packaged as per the [[http://www2.dbzoo.com|shop]] - keep the parts in their separate bags until you are ready to solder them onto the PCB.
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 You will need a soldering iron, some fine solder and a small pair of wire-cutters.
-The order in which you populate the components on the PCB is not critical. We usually start with the RJ11 socket. The socket is a tight fit. Be sure that all six pins align with the holes in the PCB before applying too much pressure. Then fit the zenner diode, D6, directly behind the RJ11 socket. Observe polarity - the bar on the component should match the bar on the PCB legend. Now, fit R6 (1K5 ohm), just to the side of the RJ11 socket.
+The order in which you populate the components on the PCB is not critical. We usually start with the RJ11 socket. The socket is a tight fit. If you warm the part a little, fitting is easier. Be sure that all six pins align with the holes in the PCB before applying too much pressure. Then fit the zenner diode, D6, directly behind the RJ11 socket. Observe polarity - the bar on the component should match the bar on the PCB legend. Now, fit R6 (1K5 ohm), just to the side of the RJ11 socket.
 The socket for the microcontroller is next. We use a 20pin socket + an 8pin socket. \\
 Remember to align the notch on the socket with the notch on the PCB legend. Now, fit the two caps and the xtal. {{ :livebox:hah_xtal_mount.jpg|Crystal Capacitor mounting}} Solder the caps to pins 1 and 2, 5 and 6 of SV1. The xtal fits to pins 3 and 4. Fit these so that the xtal sits on top of the caps.
-Jumper JP1 should be left unfitted. JP3 should be fitted and jumper-ed to short pins 1 and 2. JP4 should be fitted and pins 1 and 2 shorted. Note that our newer PCBs don't need any jumpers.
+Jumper JP1 should be left unfitted. JP3 should be fitted and jumper-ed to short pins 1 and 2. JP4 should be fitted and pins 1 and 2 shorted. Note that our newer PCBs only have one jumper (JP1), which should be fitted and jumper-ed.
 If you have relays to fit, it is easier to fit the diode, resistor (4K7 ohm) and transistor (required to drive the relay) before fitting the relay itself. <note warning>These relays are designed for **LOW** Voltage, **LOW** current operation. If you need to drive mains voltages, you should consider a suitable, external, relay board and take the precautions that are required when dealing with mains voltages.</note> When fitting the diode, ensure that the band on the component matches the PCB legend. When fitting the transistor, ensure that the flat side on the component matches the PCB legend.
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 {{:livebox:rfmounted.jpg?240|RF module mounted}}
-Solder the aerial (a 6.47" piece of wire) onto the RF module solder pad connector (marked 'ANT'). Alternatively, if you have purchased the external antenna, use the pigtail connected SMA socket (that is supplied with the external antenna kit). Centre pin on the connector goes to the 'ANT' pad, outer to any Ground signal on the PCB. \\
+Solder the aerial (a 6.47" piece of wire) onto the RF module solder pad connector (marked 'ANT'). Once fitted, trim the length of the wire to 6.47" Alternatively, if you have purchased the external antenna, use the pigtail connected SMA socket (that is supplied with the external antenna kit). Centre pin on the connector goes to the 'ANT' pad, outer to any Ground signal on the PCB. \\
 \\
 {{:livebox:hah-external_rf_1.jpg|External antenna (thanks to David for the photo)}} \\
 \\
 Next, fit the voltage regulator (marked as IC1 on the PCB legend).\\
+This regulates the 15V feed from the Livebox down to 12V for the RF module.
 Ensure that the flat side on the component matches the PCB legend.
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 ===== 1-Wire =====
-The only 1-Wire device that we currently support is a temperature sensor - the Dallas Semiconductor DS18B20, up to 15 of these can be chained to the bus.  We use a standard 3.5" audio plug as extension leads and Y splitters are cheap and readily available to make our bus connectors.
+The only 1-Wire device that we currently support is a temperature sensor - the Dallas Semiconductor DS18B20, up to 15 of these can be chained to the bus.  We use a standard 3.5mm audio plug as extension leads and Y splitters are cheap and readily available to make our bus connectors.
 {{1wire-connector.png}} {{18b20-front.png}} {{18b20-bottom.png}}
 {{:livebox:ds18b20-plug.png?300|ds18b20 with plug}}
-Plug wiring:
+The 1-Wire bus is exposed on three molex pins on the HAH PCB (PCB legend shows '1-WIRE'). Pin one is clearly marked on the PCB.
-  * Pin 1 = GND (collar mount - sheath)
-  * Pin 2 = DQ (inner core [pin])
-  * Pin 3 = Vcc (outer core)
-These match the socket connection (braid outer, red = vcc, white=dq)
+Pinout:
-Resistor R7 is the 1-Wire bus pullup resistor. We supply a 4k7 resistor, but a lower value might give better results on longer busses.
+  * Pin 1 = GND
+  * Pin 2 = DQ
+  * Pin 3 = Vcc
+We supply a pre-wired three way molex female cable. This has a black wire (Gnd) a white wire (DQ) and a red wire (Vcc). So, when fitting the cable to the PCB pins, the black wire is nearer the middle of the PCB.
+The other end of the cable connects to the 3.5mm female connector. You need to strip the cables and solder them to the 3.5mm female part. To ensure that you wire this correctly, it's easiest to plug in the 3.5mm male jack & use a multimeter to check the connections.
+.5mm female wiring:
+  * Black wire - GND (base of the 3.5mm jack)
+  * White wire = DQ (middle segment of the 3.5mm jack)
+  * Red wire = Vcc (tip of the 3.5mm jack)
+Then simply solder the DS18B20 onto the male jack the same way (see picture above for pinout).
+Resistor R7 is the 1-Wire bus pullup resistor. We supply a 4k7 resistor, but a lower value might give better results on longer busses. When adding extra sensors, it's best to power down the HAH first.
 For sample [[http://www.mcselec.com/|BASCOM]] code that can read this device have a look at the [[:atmel:ds18b20]] page.
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 {{:livebox:y-splitter.jpg|}}
-RJ45/Cat5 can also be used. This is definitely more reliable for longer cable runs. There are various 'standards' for this. Details [[http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/howto_wiring_diagram.php?referer=howto_adaptors.php|here]] for (perhaps) the most common one.
+RJ45/Cat5 can also be used. This is definitely more reliable for longer cable runs. A [[http://www.homeautomationhub.com/content/rj45-breakout-adaptor|breakout adaptor]] makes for easy connection to the HAH PCB. There are various 'standards' for wiring this. Details [[http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/howto_wiring_diagram.php?referer=howto_adaptors.php|here]] for (perhaps) the most common one.
 Further RJ45 related connection info [[http://www.digitemp.com/documentation.shtml|here]]
 -Wire bus design [[http://www.1wire.org/Files/Articles/1-Wire-Design%20Guide%20v1.0.pdf|notes]]
 ====== Before Power-up ======
-Before powering up for the 1st time, visually check the HAH PCB for any short circuits. With the Livebox power unplugged, use the MMJ to RJ11 cable to connect the HAH PCB to the Livebox. Before inserting the AVR chip, be sure to use a multimeter to check that ~= 5V (4.8V is typical) is present at pin 7 of the IC socket with Ground on pin 8. If you don't get near to 5V or you get something higher than 5V, STOP NOW and investigate.
+Before powering up for the 1st time, visually check the HAH PCB for any short circuits. With the Livebox power unplugged, use the MMJ to RJ11 cable to connect the HAH PCB to the Livebox. Apply power. Before inserting the AVR chip, be sure to use a multimeter to check that ~= 5V (4.8V is typical) is present at pin 7 of the IC socket with Ground on pin 8. If you don't get near to 5V or you get something higher than 5V, STOP NOW and investigate.
-Start by getting things going without the LCD or the RF Module connected. With power removed, insert the AVR chip (the correct way around) then power up the Livebox and let it bootup. Use [[http://www.xapautomation.org/index.php?title=xFx_Viewer|xFx viewer]] to see that the xAP endpoints on the HAH are visible. If all is well, power down & plug in the LCD. Powering up again should show you the IP address of the HAH after it boots (adjust the trimpot if you don't see anything on the LCD). Once you are happy that all is good, power down again & add the RF module.
+Start by getting things going without the LCD or the RF Module connected. With power removed, insert the AVR chip (the correct way around) then power up the Livebox and let it bootup. Use [[http://www.xapautomation.org/index.php?title=xFx_Viewer|xFx Viewer]] to see that the xAP endpoints on the HAH are visible. If all is well, power down & plug in the LCD. Powering up again should show you the IP address of the HAH after it boots (adjust the trimpot if you don't see anything on the LCD). Once you are happy that all is good, power down again & add the RF module.